Bantam White Cochin Chicks

Known for their sweet-natured and trusting personalities, Bantam White Cochins are like living snowballs of charm, making them a perfect choice for backyard flocks, especially those with children or first-time owners. They are exceptionally docile, enjoy being handled, and their calm demeanor quickly makes them a beloved family pet.

Despite their compact size, these bantams are robust and remarkably cold-hardy due to their profuse, downy feathering that covers them from head to their fuzzy, feathered feet. While not bred for high egg production, they reliably lay small, cream-colored eggs and are famous for their tendency to go broody, proving to be wonderfully attentive and dedicated mothers.

Whether you're seeking a stunning show bird, a gentle companion for your children, or simply a fluffy white jewel for your coop, the Bantam White Cochin delivers pristine elegance and a heartwarming personality in one delightful package.

Whether you're looking for a show bird, a sweet companion, or a fluffy addition to your coop, the Black Bantam Cochin brings beauty, personality, and old-fashioned charm.

Provide Enhanced Predator Protection: Due to their small bantam size and brilliant white plumage, these birds are highly visible and can be an easy target for predators like hawks, raccoons, and foxes. Ensure their run is fully enclosed, preferably with a solid or netted top, and that the coop is securely locked every night to keep them safe.

Maintain Their Pristine White Plumage: The beautiful, snow-white feathers of this variety can easily become stained or soiled. In addition to a clean coop, provide plenty of fresh, dry litter (like pine shavings) and a dedicated dust bath with clean sand or wood ash. This helps them keep their feathers immaculate and is especially important if you plan to show your birds.

Manage Flock Integration Carefully: Their diminutive size and non-aggressive nature make Bantam White Cochins particularly vulnerable to bullying from larger, more assertive breeds. To prevent injury, it's best to house them with other bantams or similarly gentle companions. If they must be in a mixed flock, ensure there is ample space and multiple feeding stations to minimize competition.

Use Bantam-Appropriate Feeders and Waterers: To prevent tiny chicks and even adult bantams from accidentally falling into and soiling their water or feed, use shallow or appropriately sized equipment. Bantam-specific models or simply placing clean stones in water dishes can prevent accidents and ensure they can always eat and drink safely and easily.

Protect From Overheating: While their fluffy coats are great for the cold, their dense feathering combined with a small body size makes them susceptible to heat stress. Always provide ample shade, cool fresh water, and good ventilation in the coop during warmer months to prevent them from overheating.

1. Preparation and Setup

Before setting your eggs, proper preparation of your incubator is crucial for a successful hatch.

• Sanitize Your Equipment: Thoroughly clean and disinfect your incubator and any accessories at least 24 hours before use. Bacteria and germs can easily penetrate eggshells and harm the developing embryo.
• Location, Location, Location: Place the incubator in a room with a stable temperature, away from direct sunlight, drafts, and high-traffic areas. This helps the incubator maintain a consistent internal temperature.
• Calibrate and Test: Run the incubator for at least 24 hours before setting the eggs. This ensures it is functioning correctly and allows you to calibrate the temperature and humidity to the precise levels needed. Use a separate, reliable thermometer and hygrometer to verify the incubator's readings.

2. Temperature and Humidity Control

Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity is the most critical aspect of incubation.

• Days 1-18: Aim for a constant temperature of 99.5°F (37.5°C) in a forced-air incubator or around 100-101°F (37.8-38.3°C) in a still-air incubator (measured at the level of the top of the eggs). The humidity should be maintained between 50-55%.
• Days 18-21 (Lockdown): Increase the humidity to 65-70%. This is vital to keep the shell membrane from drying out while the chick is trying to hatch. Do not lower the temperature.

3. Egg Turning

Egg turning is essential to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.

• Frequency: Eggs should be turned an odd number of times per day, at least 3 to 5 times. If your incubator has an automatic turner, it will handle this for you, often turning the eggs every hour.
• Manual Turning: If turning by hand, make a small, gentle pencil mark (e.g., an 'X' on one side and an 'O' on the other) on each egg to keep track.
• Stop Turning: Cease all turning on day 18. This allows the chick to position itself correctly for hatching.

4. Candling for Viability

Candling involves shining a bright light through the egg to monitor embryo development. This is best done in a dark room.

• First Candling (Day 7-10): You should see a web of blood vessels and a small, dark spot which is the developing embryo. A clear egg at this stage is likely infertile and can be removed.
• Second Candling (Day 18): Before lockdown, you can candle one last time. The egg should appear dark inside as the chick has filled most of the space. You should also see a large, distinct air cell at the wide end of the egg. Remove any eggs that show no signs of development.

5. The Lockdown Period (Days 18-21)

This is the final and most delicate phase of incubation.

• Stop Turning: As mentioned, stop turning the eggs on day 18. If you have an automatic turner, remove it from the incubator.
• Increase Humidity: Raise the humidity to 65-70% by adding more water to the incubator's channels.
• Do Not Open the Incubator: It is crucial to keep the incubator closed during lockdown. Opening it will cause a significant drop in humidity and temperature, which can "shrink-wrap" the chick in its membrane, making it difficult or impossible to hatch.

6. Hatching and Post-Hatch Care

The final stage is the hatch itself, which can take 24 hours or more from the first "pip" (the initial crack in the shell).

• Be Patient: Let the chicks hatch on their own. Do not be tempted to "help" a chick out of its shell, as this can cause injury and bleeding. The struggle of hatching is essential for the chick to absorb the remaining yolk sac.
• Allow Chicks to Dry: Leave newly hatched chicks in the incubator for at least 12 to 24 hours. This allows them to dry off, gain strength, and encourages other eggs to hatch. They do not need food or water during this time as they are sustained by the absorbed yolk.
• Move to a Brooder: Once the chicks are dry and fluffy, move them to a pre-warmed brooder. The brooder should be set to approximately 95°F (35°C) for the first week and have clean bedding, fresh water, and a quality chick starter feed available.