Buff Cochin Chicks

Renowned for their incredibly calm and friendly nature, the Buff Cochin is the epitome of a "gentle giant" in the poultry world. Their placid disposition and tendency to be affectionate make them an outstanding choice for families with children and anyone seeking a truly personable backyard companion. They are remarkably easy to handle, often enjoying being held, and their gentle spirit makes them one of the most docile and trustworthy breeds available.

Instantly recognizable by their massive, fluffy appearance, Buff Cochins are covered in a profusion of soft, golden-buff feathers right down to their feet. This dense plumage not only creates a stunning, ball-like silhouette but also makes them exceptionally hardy and tolerant of cold climates. While they are considered fair layers of brown eggs, their true talent lies in their maternal instincts; Buff Cochin hens are legendary for their tendency to go broody and are exceptionally devoted and reliable mothers.

Whether you are looking for a breathtakingly beautiful bird to grace your lawn, a dependable mother to hatch eggs for your flock, or simply a sweet-tempered feathered friend, the Buff Cochin excels. They bring a sense of tranquility and old-fashioned, fluffy charm to any coop, proving that a chicken's value can be measured in personality as much as in production.

Whether you're looking for a show bird, a sweet companion, or a fluffy addition to your coop, the Black Bantam Cochin brings beauty, personality, and old-fashioned charm.

Protect From Overheating: While their famous fluffy plumage makes them exceptionally cold-hardy, it also puts them at a high risk for heat stress in the summer. Always provide ample shade, excellent coop ventilation, and constant access to cool, fresh water during warm weather to keep them comfortable and safe.

Install Low, Wide Roosts: As a large, heavy-bodied breed that is not an agile flier, Cochins can easily injure their legs and feet jumping down from high perches. It is essential to provide low—no more than 18 inches from the ground—and wide, sturdy roosts to prevent leg injuries like bumblefoot.

Supervise in Mixed Flocks: Buff Cochins are known for being exceptionally gentle and non-confrontational, which can unfortunately make them a target for bullying by more assertive breeds. When keeping them in a mixed flock, watch closely to ensure they are not being picked on or kept away from food and water.

Ensure Access to a Quality Dust Bath: A large, dry area with a mixture of fine sand, loose dirt, or food-grade diatomaceous earth is vital for Cochins. Dust bathing is their natural way to control external parasites like mites and lice that can easily hide in their dense, profuse feathering.

Be Patient With Slower Maturation: Unlike many other breeds, Cochins take a longer time to fully develop, often not reaching their full size or beginning to lay eggs until they are 8 to 10 months old. Understand that their growth is a marathon, not a sprint, and allow them the time they need to mature properly.

1. Preparation and Setup

Before setting your eggs, proper preparation of your incubator is crucial for a successful hatch.

• Sanitize Your Equipment: Thoroughly clean and disinfect your incubator and any accessories at least 24 hours before use. Bacteria and germs can easily penetrate eggshells and harm the developing embryo.
• Location, Location, Location: Place the incubator in a room with a stable temperature, away from direct sunlight, drafts, and high-traffic areas. This helps the incubator maintain a consistent internal temperature.
• Calibrate and Test: Run the incubator for at least 24 hours before setting the eggs. This ensures it is functioning correctly and allows you to calibrate the temperature and humidity to the precise levels needed. Use a separate, reliable thermometer and hygrometer to verify the incubator's readings.

2. Temperature and Humidity Control

Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity is the most critical aspect of incubation.

• Days 1-18: Aim for a constant temperature of 99.5°F (37.5°C) in a forced-air incubator or around 100-101°F (37.8-38.3°C) in a still-air incubator (measured at the level of the top of the eggs). The humidity should be maintained between 50-55%.
• Days 18-21 (Lockdown): Increase the humidity to 65-70%. This is vital to keep the shell membrane from drying out while the chick is trying to hatch. Do not lower the temperature.

3. Egg Turning

Egg turning is essential to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.

• Frequency: Eggs should be turned an odd number of times per day, at least 3 to 5 times. If your incubator has an automatic turner, it will handle this for you, often turning the eggs every hour.
• Manual Turning: If turning by hand, make a small, gentle pencil mark (e.g., an 'X' on one side and an 'O' on the other) on each egg to keep track.
• Stop Turning: Cease all turning on day 18. This allows the chick to position itself correctly for hatching.

4. Candling for Viability

Candling involves shining a bright light through the egg to monitor embryo development. This is best done in a dark room.

• First Candling (Day 7-10): You should see a web of blood vessels and a small, dark spot which is the developing embryo. A clear egg at this stage is likely infertile and can be removed.
• Second Candling (Day 18): Before lockdown, you can candle one last time. The egg should appear dark inside as the chick has filled most of the space. You should also see a large, distinct air cell at the wide end of the egg. Remove any eggs that show no signs of development.

5. The Lockdown Period (Days 18-21)

This is the final and most delicate phase of incubation.

• Stop Turning: As mentioned, stop turning the eggs on day 18. If you have an automatic turner, remove it from the incubator.
• Increase Humidity: Raise the humidity to 65-70% by adding more water to the incubator's channels.
• Do Not Open the Incubator: It is crucial to keep the incubator closed during lockdown. Opening it will cause a significant drop in humidity and temperature, which can "shrink-wrap" the chick in its membrane, making it difficult or impossible to hatch.

6. Hatching and Post-Hatch Care

The final stage is the hatch itself, which can take 24 hours or more from the first "pip" (the initial crack in the shell).

• Be Patient: Let the chicks hatch on their own. Do not be tempted to "help" a chick out of its shell, as this can cause injury and bleeding. The struggle of hatching is essential for the chick to absorb the remaining yolk sac.
• Allow Chicks to Dry: Leave newly hatched chicks in the incubator for at least 12 to 24 hours. This allows them to dry off, gain strength, and encourages other eggs to hatch. They do not need food or water during this time as they are sustained by the absorbed yolk.
• Move to a Brooder: Once the chicks are dry and fluffy, move them to a pre-warmed brooder. The brooder should be set to approximately 95°F (35°C) for the first week and have clean bedding, fresh water, and a quality chick starter feed available.