Buff Orpington Chicks

Affectionately known as the "Golden Retrievers" of the chicken world, Buff Orpingtons are celebrated for their exceptionally friendly and docile nature. Their calm disposition and tendency to enjoy human interaction make them a top choice for backyard flocks, especially for families with children and those new to keeping chickens. They are incredibly easy to handle, often seeking out attention, and quickly become cherished family pets.

As a large, heavy-bodied breed, these birds are quite hardy, and their thick, fluffy feathering makes them wonderfully tolerant of cold climates. Unlike many ornamental breeds, Buff Orpingtons are excellent and reliable layers, consistently producing a large number of large, light brown eggs. Furthermore, they are famous for their strong broody instinct, making them fantastic, attentive mothers if you wish to hatch your own chicks.

Provide Protection from Summer Heat: While their thick, fluffy plumage makes them very cold-hardy, it also makes them prone to overheating in warm weather. Ensure they have plenty of shade, good coop ventilation, and constant access to cool, fresh water during the hot summer months to prevent heat stress.

Monitor Their Weight to Prevent Obesity: Due to their calm nature and hearty appetites, Buff Orpingtons are highly prone to becoming overweight, which can lead to health issues and a sharp decline in egg laying. Feed a balanced layer pellet as their primary diet, limit calorie-dense treats like scratch grains and corn, and ensure they have ample space to move around and forage.

Perform Regular Parasite Checks: Their dense and fluffy feathers can provide excellent cover for external parasites like mites and lice, making infestations difficult to spot early. Routinely part their feathers to inspect the skin, especially around the vent and under the wings, and maintain a clean coop and a quality dust bath for prevention.

Support Consistent Egg Laying: As a reliable dual-purpose breed, it's important to support their egg production with proper nutrition. Always provide a high-quality layer feed and offer a free-choice calcium supplement, like crushed oyster shell, in a separate dish to ensure strong eggshells and maintain the hen's health.

Monitor Their Place in the Pecking Order: Their famously docile and non-confrontational nature can sometimes make them a target for bullying by more aggressive breeds. If you have a mixed flock, watch to make sure your Orpingtons are not being kept away from food and water and have enough space to avoid conflict.

1. Preparation and Setup

Before setting your eggs, proper preparation of your incubator is crucial for a successful hatch.

• Sanitize Your Equipment: Thoroughly clean and disinfect your incubator and any accessories at least 24 hours before use. Bacteria and germs can easily penetrate eggshells and harm the developing embryo.
• Location, Location, Location: Place the incubator in a room with a stable temperature, away from direct sunlight, drafts, and high-traffic areas. This helps the incubator maintain a consistent internal temperature.
• Calibrate and Test: Run the incubator for at least 24 hours before setting the eggs. This ensures it is functioning correctly and allows you to calibrate the temperature and humidity to the precise levels needed. Use a separate, reliable thermometer and hygrometer to verify the incubator's readings.

2. Temperature and Humidity Control

Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity is the most critical aspect of incubation.

• Days 1-18: Aim for a constant temperature of 99.5°F (37.5°C) in a forced-air incubator or around 100-101°F (37.8-38.3°C) in a still-air incubator (measured at the level of the top of the eggs). The humidity should be maintained between 50-55%.
• Days 18-21 (Lockdown): Increase the humidity to 65-70%. This is vital to keep the shell membrane from drying out while the chick is trying to hatch. Do not lower the temperature.

3. Egg Turning

Egg turning is essential to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.

• Frequency: Eggs should be turned an odd number of times per day, at least 3 to 5 times. If your incubator has an automatic turner, it will handle this for you, often turning the eggs every hour.
• Manual Turning: If turning by hand, make a small, gentle pencil mark (e.g., an 'X' on one side and an 'O' on the other) on each egg to keep track.
• Stop Turning: Cease all turning on day 18. This allows the chick to position itself correctly for hatching.

4. Candling for Viability

Candling involves shining a bright light through the egg to monitor embryo development. This is best done in a dark room.

• First Candling (Day 7-10): You should see a web of blood vessels and a small, dark spot which is the developing embryo. A clear egg at this stage is likely infertile and can be removed.
• Second Candling (Day 18): Before lockdown, you can candle one last time. The egg should appear dark inside as the chick has filled most of the space. You should also see a large, distinct air cell at the wide end of the egg. Remove any eggs that show no signs of development.

5. The Lockdown Period (Days 18-21)

This is the final and most delicate phase of incubation.

• Stop Turning: As mentioned, stop turning the eggs on day 18. If you have an automatic turner, remove it from the incubator.
• Increase Humidity: Raise the humidity to 65-70% by adding more water to the incubator's channels.
• Do Not Open the Incubator: It is crucial to keep the incubator closed during lockdown. Opening it will cause a significant drop in humidity and temperature, which can "shrink-wrap" the chick in its membrane, making it difficult or impossible to hatch.

6. Hatching and Post-Hatch Care

The final stage is the hatch itself, which can take 24 hours or more from the first "pip" (the initial crack in the shell).

• Be Patient: Let the chicks hatch on their own. Do not be tempted to "help" a chick out of its shell, as this can cause injury and bleeding. The struggle of hatching is essential for the chick to absorb the remaining yolk sac.
• Allow Chicks to Dry: Leave newly hatched chicks in the incubator for at least 12 to 24 hours. This allows them to dry off, gain strength, and encourages other eggs to hatch. They do not need food or water during this time as they are sustained by the absorbed yolk.
• Move to a Brooder: Once the chicks are dry and fluffy, move them to a pre-warmed brooder. The brooder should be set to approximately 95°F (35°C) for the first week and have clean bedding, fresh water, and a quality chick starter feed available.