Partridge Cochin Chicks

Their dense feathering gives them a wonderfully rounded, cushioned appearance, extending luxuriously down their legs and feet. Beyond their captivating looks, Partridge Cochins are celebrated for their exceptionally calm and docile temperament, making them ideal companions and a joy to have around. Their gentle nature ensures they integrate seamlessly into mixed flocks and are particularly suited for families, even those with children, due to their placid disposition and willingness to be handled.

Hardy and adaptable, Partridge Cochins thrive in various climates, their thick feathering providing excellent insulation against the cold. While primarily admired for their ornamental beauty and charming personality, hens will also provide a respectable number of medium-sized, brown eggs. They possess a strong maternal instinct, making them excellent brooders and devoted mothers to their chicks. If you desire a truly beautiful, low-maintenance, and remarkably friendly chicken that will add both elegance and tranquility to your homestead, the Partridge Cochin is an impeccable choice, promising years of gentle companionship and visual delight.

Whether you're looking for a show bird, a sweet companion, or a fluffy addition to your coop, the Black Bantam Cochin brings beauty, personality, and old-fashioned charm.

Protect From Overheating in Summer: While their dense, fluffy plumage makes them exceptionally cold-hardy, it also makes them susceptible to heat stress. Ensure they always have access to ample shade and cool, fresh water during warm months, and watch for signs of distress like panting or lethargy.

Install Low Roosts and Spacious Nesting Boxes: As a large, heavy-bodied breed, Cochins are not strong fliers and can injure their legs jumping down from high perches. Provide wide, sturdy roosts positioned no more than a foot or two off the ground, along with larger-than-standard nesting boxes to comfortably accommodate their size.

Monitor Flock Dynamics Carefully: Partridge Cochins are exceptionally gentle and non-aggressive, which can put them at the bottom of the pecking order. When introducing them to a mixed flock, supervise interactions closely to ensure they are not being bullied by more assertive breeds.

Maintain a Quality Dust Bath Area: A readily available dust bath with fine sand or diatomaceous earth is essential for feather health and parasite control. Their abundant, dense feathering can harbor mites and lice, and regular dust bathing is their natural way to stay clean and pest-free.

Be Patient with Slower Maturation: Unlike many production breeds, Cochins develop more slowly, often taking 8-10 months to reach their full magnificent size and begin laying eggs. Understand that their growth is a marathon, not a sprint, and enjoy watching their unique appearance develop over time.

1. Preparation and Setup

Before setting your eggs, proper preparation of your incubator is crucial for a successful hatch.

• Sanitize Your Equipment: Thoroughly clean and disinfect your incubator and any accessories at least 24 hours before use. Bacteria and germs can easily penetrate eggshells and harm the developing embryo.
• Location, Location, Location: Place the incubator in a room with a stable temperature, away from direct sunlight, drafts, and high-traffic areas. This helps the incubator maintain a consistent internal temperature.
• Calibrate and Test: Run the incubator for at least 24 hours before setting the eggs. This ensures it is functioning correctly and allows you to calibrate the temperature and humidity to the precise levels needed. Use a separate, reliable thermometer and hygrometer to verify the incubator's readings.

2. Temperature and Humidity Control

Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity is the most critical aspect of incubation.

• Days 1-18: Aim for a constant temperature of 99.5°F (37.5°C) in a forced-air incubator or around 100-101°F (37.8-38.3°C) in a still-air incubator (measured at the level of the top of the eggs). The humidity should be maintained between 50-55%.
• Days 18-21 (Lockdown): Increase the humidity to 65-70%. This is vital to keep the shell membrane from drying out while the chick is trying to hatch. Do not lower the temperature.

3. Egg Turning

Egg turning is essential to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.

• Frequency: Eggs should be turned an odd number of times per day, at least 3 to 5 times. If your incubator has an automatic turner, it will handle this for you, often turning the eggs every hour.
• Manual Turning: If turning by hand, make a small, gentle pencil mark (e.g., an 'X' on one side and an 'O' on the other) on each egg to keep track.
• Stop Turning: Cease all turning on day 18. This allows the chick to position itself correctly for hatching.

4. Candling for Viability

Candling involves shining a bright light through the egg to monitor embryo development. This is best done in a dark room.

• First Candling (Day 7-10): You should see a web of blood vessels and a small, dark spot which is the developing embryo. A clear egg at this stage is likely infertile and can be removed.
• Second Candling (Day 18): Before lockdown, you can candle one last time. The egg should appear dark inside as the chick has filled most of the space. You should also see a large, distinct air cell at the wide end of the egg. Remove any eggs that show no signs of development.

5. The Lockdown Period (Days 18-21)

This is the final and most delicate phase of incubation.

• Stop Turning: As mentioned, stop turning the eggs on day 18. If you have an automatic turner, remove it from the incubator.
• Increase Humidity: Raise the humidity to 65-70% by adding more water to the incubator's channels.
• Do Not Open the Incubator: It is crucial to keep the incubator closed during lockdown. Opening it will cause a significant drop in humidity and temperature, which can "shrink-wrap" the chick in its membrane, making it difficult or impossible to hatch.

6. Hatching and Post-Hatch Care

The final stage is the hatch itself, which can take 24 hours or more from the first "pip" (the initial crack in the shell).

• Be Patient: Let the chicks hatch on their own. Do not be tempted to "help" a chick out of its shell, as this can cause injury and bleeding. The struggle of hatching is essential for the chick to absorb the remaining yolk sac.
• Allow Chicks to Dry: Leave newly hatched chicks in the incubator for at least 12 to 24 hours. This allows them to dry off, gain strength, and encourages other eggs to hatch. They do not need food or water during this time as they are sustained by the absorbed yolk.
• Move to a Brooder: Once the chicks are dry and fluffy, move them to a pre-warmed brooder. The brooder should be set to approximately 95°F (35°C) for the first week and have clean bedding, fresh water, and a quality chick starter feed available.